Author: Lance Winslow
Source: articleage.com
In 2005 we saw the fuel prices so high that, gas regulator, many had chosen, gas regulator, to buy hybrid vehicles and they quickly sold out. There were waiting lists at Toyota and Honda for all models. And the Toyota Prius was car of the year. The United States Congress and Senate passed an Energy Bill, which, gas regulator, had many incentives for those who bought Hybrid Vehicles. Many, gas regulator, of these tax breaks started on January 1, 2006, which meant some car buyers had waited until 2006 to buy the cars that they wanted.
Meanwhile Daimler Chrysler and other Auto Makers are going all out with incentives to get people to buy their gas guzzling SUV models like the Jeeps. Offering $58.00 per month payments, $1,000 rebates and free oil changes, maintenance and gas allowance for two-years. With those sorts of incentives they are sure to sell vehicles. Yet you can, gas regulator, expect the Hybrid Vehicle trends to accelerate even so.
In fact expect in 2006 for new models to come out to meet the consumer demand and alleviate some of these waiting lists. Also expect fuel prices to inch back up fueling the further demand for such vehicles throughout 2006 and, gas regulator, into 2007. The free market and consumer choice to save fuel may just save the environment yet, say some Global Warming Alarmists. Just think the answer to their solution all along is free markets and capitalism and not more rules and regulations, which, gas regulator, is exactly the opposite of what the opposing party of the current leadership in the US stands for. Think on this in 2006.
"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/
Showing posts with label fuel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fuel. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Monday, December 21, 2009
FAQ on Modifying the Toyota Supra
Author: Stuart B
Source: articleage.com
What does BPU™ stand for? (BPU™ is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length, gas regulator, three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3" (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the, gas regulator, required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) needed to achieve that boost without activating the factory, gas regulator, fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven, gas regulator, to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when someone says BPU™+? And what is APU?
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than, gas regulator, the basic BPU™ modifications. One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU™ modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU™+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU™++, and so on. The "BPU™" term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first engine modifications I should perform?
I recommend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU™.
What do all the various "Free Mods" do?
There are many different "free mods" for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I, gas regulator, will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.
Three, gas regulator, of the boost, gas regulator, control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels, gas regulator, without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin, gas regulator, turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without, gas regulator, the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The, gas, gas regulator, regulator, last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore,, gas regulator, this modification is for off-road use only, gas regulator, . This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at BPU™?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU™-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent, gas regulator, of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds should I run at BPU™-only?
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12, gas regulator, .3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.
What is a BPU™'d Supra TT's top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled,, gas regulator, by pulling the "TRAC" fuse of course.
Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU™ mods?
Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect, gas regulator, for the components,, gas regulator, you should maintain much of the power train's life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU™. This especially holds, gas regulator,, gas regulator, true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance,, gas regulator, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it's an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it's reliability will depend on it's design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the components utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean, gas regulator, more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards, gas regulator, are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.
What are the power limits of the various factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have really not been enough failures to really pin point a limit for the various power-train components. The motor, gas regulator, could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But, gas regulator, of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded, gas regulator, 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don't understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit's will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power, gas regulator, shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to handle, gas regulator, around 800RWHP or more, although, gas regulator, great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don't have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost impossible to break, gas regulator, any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain., gas regulator, The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If, gas regulator, you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely, gas regulator, affected, gas, gas regulator, regulator, with the BPU™ mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it's definitely worth it. And the interior of the Supra is, gas regulator, pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU™ mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should, gas regulator, not be effected, and you should still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU™ mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive "vigorously", more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should, gas regulator, I install an "Intake" (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will also draw in more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a, gas regulator, cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably notice a significant, gas regulator, gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn't hurt. But it won't help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large enough for BPU™?
Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that,, gas regulator, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno'd, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
BPU™'d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors, gas regulator, are, gas regulator, not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most popular electronic fuel controllers is the A'PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller,, gas regulator, or a Manual BC?
Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can't, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don't recommend going regularly over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There really is no BEST. Although the, gas regulator, A'PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also, gas regulator, more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models, gas regulator, if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become "confused" by the unnatural, gas regulator, behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my, gas regulator, EBC, do I connect, gas regulator, it to both of the Turbo's Wastegates?
The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo's wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary's.
Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range., gas regulator, And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU™ level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you, gas regulator, buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed, gas regulator, by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at BPU™?
The general consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don't recommend it if you don't have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade, gas regulator, .
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at BPU™, gas regulator, power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger's Turbine section to the "Cat-Back" exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).
I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a, gas regulator,, gas regulator, Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 "black boxes".
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem, gas regulator, to "wake up" a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-HKS Dragger II (85mm)
Tasteful, gas regulator, Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)
-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-TRD 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A'PEXi N1
-HKS Hiper (75mm)
Wild, gas regulator, Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A'PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling, gas regulator, / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound, gas regulator, Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?
Have a custom performance exhaust shop fabricate a complete 3" exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that $400. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the important feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A'PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost, gas regulator, gauge be installed, gas regulator, in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most popular places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can, gas regulator, also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?
Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU™'d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also recommend buying cam gears which feature, gas regulator, 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the removal, gas regulator, of the factory torsional damper.
This is from MKIV.com :"this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting, gas regulator, couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive, gas regulator, belt."
Basically this device provides crutial isolation between the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU™?
The stock ignition system is VERY capable of supplying enough, gas regulator, fire for a BPU™'d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 large coils, one, gas regulator, for each cylinder. So the system is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may, gas regulator, need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at BPU™ or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal NGK replacement for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the '7'), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the 'p') and has a smaller .0315 gap, gas regulator, (lack of the '-11'). This plug is also called the NGK, gas regulator, 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn't seem to, gas regulator, be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler, gas regulator, than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don't last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known, gas regulator, to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I recommend replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the HKS VPC and GCC?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not absolutely required, but it is a good idea. The, gas regulator, factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is probably a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you, gas regulator, still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can, gas regulator, I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU™ power levels?
Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider, gas regulator, a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded, gas regulator, fuel system would be a must.
450hp just isn't enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only limited by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP, gas regulator, monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple BPU™ modifications. Modification becomes more than "bolt on Downpipe,, gas regulator, gain 50hp". Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY, gas regulator, high HP car. Actually,, gas regulator, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra TT is still easier to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But, gas regulator, it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn't be as simple as the BPU™ bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU™ mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning,, gas regulator, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic components (also, gas regulator, includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU™ mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The difference in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.
The next level would require, gas regulator, a completely upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the, gas regulator, 700RWHP range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly, gas regulator, tuned and maintained you should retain a fair amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some people have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go ahead and build up, gas regulator, the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this, gas regulator, should hold true at ANY level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don't mind sitting in your car while it idles down every single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it's, gas regulator, own. This is important for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra's power output affected by changes, gas regulator, in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU™ car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent reduction between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU™ car?
It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after, gas regulator, BPU™.
Can I resurface, gas regulator, my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight, gas regulator, flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can create a lot of, gas regulator, noise at idle, and can transmit more vibrations and shock to the expensive Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?
Just pushing the "Trac Off" button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC funtion through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system's ignition, gas regulator, timing retard function., gas regulator, Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you'll get used, gas regulator, to it.
Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?
NO. The Trac system was calibrated to improve traction in slippery, gas regulator, conditions. It was not calibrated with performance, gas regulator, in mind. When the Trac system senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the, gas regulator, Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra TT's top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can, gas regulator, be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra TT's maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with enough power?
Lets find out.
The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.
Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall's aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal's 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17", and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference, gas regulator, is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire's revolving speed, by the tire's outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016, gas regulator, feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given enough power of course.
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Source: articleage.com
What does BPU™ stand for? (BPU™ is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length, gas regulator, three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3" (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the, gas regulator, required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) needed to achieve that boost without activating the factory, gas regulator, fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven, gas regulator, to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when someone says BPU™+? And what is APU?
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than, gas regulator, the basic BPU™ modifications. One "+" refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second "+" refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU™ modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU™+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU™++, and so on. The "BPU™" term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first engine modifications I should perform?
I recommend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU™.
What do all the various "Free Mods" do?
There are many different "free mods" for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I, gas regulator, will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.
Three, gas regulator, of the boost, gas regulator, control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels, gas regulator, without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin, gas regulator, turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without, gas regulator, the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The, gas, gas regulator, regulator, last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore,, gas regulator, this modification is for off-road use only, gas regulator, . This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at BPU™?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU™-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent, gas regulator, of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds should I run at BPU™-only?
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12, gas regulator, .3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.
What is a BPU™'d Supra TT's top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled,, gas regulator, by pulling the "TRAC" fuse of course.
Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU™ mods?
Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect, gas regulator, for the components,, gas regulator, you should maintain much of the power train's life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU™. This especially holds, gas regulator,, gas regulator, true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What's the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance,, gas regulator, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it's an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it's reliability will depend on it's design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the components utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean, gas regulator, more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards, gas regulator, are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.
What are the power limits of the various factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have really not been enough failures to really pin point a limit for the various power-train components. The motor, gas regulator, could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But, gas regulator, of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded, gas regulator, 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don't understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit's will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power, gas regulator, shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to handle, gas regulator, around 800RWHP or more, although, gas regulator, great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don't have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost impossible to break, gas regulator, any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain., gas regulator, The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If, gas regulator, you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely, gas regulator, affected, gas, gas regulator, regulator, with the BPU™ mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it's definitely worth it. And the interior of the Supra is, gas regulator, pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU™ mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should, gas regulator, not be effected, and you should still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU™ mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive "vigorously", more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should, gas regulator, I install an "Intake" (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will also draw in more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a, gas regulator, cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably notice a significant, gas regulator, gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn't hurt. But it won't help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large enough for BPU™?
Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that,, gas regulator, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno'd, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
BPU™'d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors, gas regulator, are, gas regulator, not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most popular electronic fuel controllers is the A'PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller,, gas regulator, or a Manual BC?
Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can't, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don't recommend going regularly over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There really is no BEST. Although the, gas regulator, A'PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also, gas regulator, more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models, gas regulator, if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become "confused" by the unnatural, gas regulator, behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my, gas regulator, EBC, do I connect, gas regulator, it to both of the Turbo's Wastegates?
The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo's wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary's.
Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range., gas regulator, And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU™ level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you, gas regulator, buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed, gas regulator, by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at BPU™?
The general consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don't recommend it if you don't have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade, gas regulator, .
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at BPU™, gas regulator, power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger's Turbine section to the "Cat-Back" exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).
I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a, gas regulator,, gas regulator, Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 "black boxes".
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem, gas regulator, to "wake up" a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-HKS Dragger II (85mm)
Tasteful, gas regulator, Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)
-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-TRD 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A'PEXi N1
-HKS Hiper (75mm)
Wild, gas regulator, Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A'PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling, gas regulator, / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound, gas regulator, Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?
Have a custom performance exhaust shop fabricate a complete 3" exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that $400. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the important feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A'PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost, gas regulator, gauge be installed, gas regulator, in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most popular places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can, gas regulator, also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?
Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU™'d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also recommend buying cam gears which feature, gas regulator, 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the removal, gas regulator, of the factory torsional damper.
This is from MKIV.com :"this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting, gas regulator, couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive, gas regulator, belt."
Basically this device provides crutial isolation between the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU™?
The stock ignition system is VERY capable of supplying enough, gas regulator, fire for a BPU™'d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 large coils, one, gas regulator, for each cylinder. So the system is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may, gas regulator, need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at BPU™ or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal NGK replacement for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the '7'), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the 'p') and has a smaller .0315 gap, gas regulator, (lack of the '-11'). This plug is also called the NGK, gas regulator, 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn't seem to, gas regulator, be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler, gas regulator, than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don't last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known, gas regulator, to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I recommend replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the HKS VPC and GCC?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not absolutely required, but it is a good idea. The, gas regulator, factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is probably a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you, gas regulator, still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can, gas regulator, I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU™ power levels?
Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider, gas regulator, a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded, gas regulator, fuel system would be a must.
450hp just isn't enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only limited by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP, gas regulator, monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple BPU™ modifications. Modification becomes more than "bolt on Downpipe,, gas regulator, gain 50hp". Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY, gas regulator, high HP car. Actually,, gas regulator, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra TT is still easier to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But, gas regulator, it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn't be as simple as the BPU™ bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU™ mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning,, gas regulator, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic components (also, gas regulator, includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU™ mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The difference in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.
The next level would require, gas regulator, a completely upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the, gas regulator, 700RWHP range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly, gas regulator, tuned and maintained you should retain a fair amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some people have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go ahead and build up, gas regulator, the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this, gas regulator, should hold true at ANY level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don't mind sitting in your car while it idles down every single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it's, gas regulator, own. This is important for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra's power output affected by changes, gas regulator, in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU™ car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent reduction between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU™ car?
It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after, gas regulator, BPU™.
Can I resurface, gas regulator, my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight, gas regulator, flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can create a lot of, gas regulator, noise at idle, and can transmit more vibrations and shock to the expensive Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?
Just pushing the "Trac Off" button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC funtion through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system's ignition, gas regulator, timing retard function., gas regulator, Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you'll get used, gas regulator, to it.
Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?
NO. The Trac system was calibrated to improve traction in slippery, gas regulator, conditions. It was not calibrated with performance, gas regulator, in mind. When the Trac system senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the, gas regulator, Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra TT's top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can, gas regulator, be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra TT's maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with enough power?
Lets find out.
The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.
Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall's aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal's 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17", and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference, gas regulator, is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire's revolving speed, by the tire's outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016, gas regulator, feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given enough power of course.
For more go to Http://www.ausdriftcar.cjb.net
Monday, December 14, 2009
Gas-Saving Products: Fact or Fuelishness?
Author: Pierre Schexneider
Source: articleage.com
Gas prices are up, and so is the volume of advertising for "gas-saving" products. When gasoline prices rise, consumers often look for ways to improve fuel efficiency. Although, gas regulator, there are practical steps you can take to increase gas mileage, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns you to be wary of any gas-saving claims for automotive devices or oil and gas additives. Even for the few gas-saving products that have been found to work, the savings have been small.
"Gas-Saving" Advertising Claims
Be skeptical of the following, gas regulator, kinds of advertising claims.
"This gas-saving product improves fuel economy by 20 percent."
Claims usually tout savings ranging from 12 to 25 percent. However, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has evaluated or tested more than 100 alleged gas-saving devices and has not found any product that significantly improves gas mileage. In fact, some "gas-saving" products may damage a car's engine or cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions.
The gas-saving, gas regulator, products on the market fall into clearly defined categories. Although the EPA has not tested or evaluated every product, it has tried, gas regulator, to examine at least one product in each category. See "Devices Tested by EPA" at the end, gas regulator, of this brochure for category descriptions and product names.
"After installing your product on my car, I got an extra 4 miles [6.4 kilometers] per gallon [3.8 liters]."
Many ads, gas regulator, feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers. Yet, few consumers have the ability or the equipment to test for precise changes in gas mileage, gas regulator, after installing a gas-saving product. Many variables affect fuel consumption, including traffic, road and weather conditions, and the car's condition.
For example, one consumer sent a letter to a company praising its, gas regulator, "gas-saving" product. At the time the product was installed, however, the consumer also had received a complete engine tune-up, gas regulator, - a fact not mentioned in the letter. The entire, gas regulator, increase in gas mileage attributed to the "gas-saving" product may well have been the result of the tune-up alone. But from the ad, other consumers could not have known that.
"This gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government."
No government agency endorses gas-saving, gas regulator, products for cars. The most that can be claimed in advertising is that the EPA has reached certain conclusions about possible gas savings by testing the product or by evaluating the manufacturer's own test data. If the seller claims that its product has been evaluated by the EPA, ask for a copy of the EPA report, or check www.epa.gov for information. In some instances, false claims of EPA testing or approval have been made.
Product Complaints and Refunds
If you're dissatisfied with a gas-saving product, contact the manufacturer and ask for a refund. Most companies offer money-back guarantees. Contact the company, even if, gas regulator, the guarantee period has expired.
If you're not satisfied with the company's response, contact, gas regulator, your local or state consumer protection agency or the Better Business Bureau.
EPA Evaluation Efforts
The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their use will result in any significant improvement or detriment to fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving products will have on a vehicle over time because it hasn't conducted any durability tests. It's possible, gas regulator, that some products may harm the car or may otherwise adversely affect its performance. In fact, today's vehicles' emission control systems are very sophisticated and complex. They have On Board Diagnostic features that alert the driver to problems associated with the emission control and fuel delivery systems. Retrofit products, gas regulator, may have an adverse effect on these systems.
Devices Tested by EPA
The following list categorizes various types of "gas-saving" products, explains how they're used and gives product names. Those with asterisks may save measurable, but small, amounts of gas. All others have been found, gas regulator, not to increase, gas regulator, fuel economy.
Air Bleed Devices: These devices bleed air into the carburetor, gas regulator, . They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase, gas regulator, Ventilation line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws.
The EPA has evaluated the following products: ADAKS Vacuum Breaker Air Bleed; Air-Jet Air Bleed; Aquablast Wyman Valve Air Bleed; Auto-Miser; Ball-Matic Air, gas regulator, Bleed; Berg Air Bleed; Brisko PCV; Cyclone-Z; Econo Needle Air Bleed; Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle Screws; Fuel Max*; Gas Saving Device; Grancor Air Computer; Hot Tip; Landrum Mini-Carb; Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed; Mini Turbocharger Air Bleed; Monocar HC Control Air Bleed; Peterman Air Bleed; Pollution Master Air Bleed; Ram-Jet; Turbo-Dyne G.R. Valve.
Vapor Bleed Devices: These devices are similar to the air bleed devices, except that induced air is bubbled through a container of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the engine compartment.
The EPA has evaluated: Atomized Vapor Injector; Frantz Vapor Injection System; Hydro-Vac: POWERFUeL; Mark II Vapor Injection System; Platinum Gasaver; V-70 Vapor Injector; SCATPAC Vacuum Vapor Induction System: Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapor Injection System; Turbo Vapor Injection System.
Liquid Injection: These products add liquid into the fuel/air intake system and not directly into the combustion chamber.
The EPA has evaluated: Goodman Engine System-Model, gas regulator, 1800; Waag-Injection System*.
Ignition Devices: These devices are attached to the ignition system or are used to replace original equipment or parts.
The EPA has evaluated: Autosaver; Baur Condenser; BIAP Electronic Ignition Unit; Fuel Economizer; Magna Flash Ignition Control System; Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI; Special Formula Ignition Advance Springs.
Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical system.
The EPA has evaluated: FuelXpander; Gas Meiser, gas regulator, I; Greer Fuel Preheater; Jacona Fuel System; Optimizer; Russell Fuelmiser.
Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to the outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line, claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline.
The EPA has evaluated: PETRO-MIZER; POLARION-X; Super-Mag Fuel Extender; Wickliff, gas regulator, Polarizer [fuel, gas regulator, line magnet/intake air magnet].
Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line, supposedly causing ionization of the fuel.
The EPA has evaluated: Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure regulator]; Moleculetor.
Mixture Enhancers: (under the carburetor). These devices are mounted between, gas regulator, the carburetor and intake manifold and supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel mixture.
The EPA has evaluated:, gas regulator, Energy Gas Saver; Environmental Fuel Saver; Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device; Glynn-50; Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System; PETROMIZER SYSTEM; Sav-A-Mile; Spritzer; Turbo-Carb; Turbocarb.
Mixture Enhancers: (others). These devices, gas regulator, make some general modifications to the vehicle intake system.
The EPA has evaluated: Basko Enginecoat; Dresser Economizer; Electro-Dyne Superchoke;, gas regulator, Filtron Urethane Foam Filter; Lamkin Fuel Metering Device; Smith Power and Deceleration Governor.
Internal Engine Modifications: These devices make physical or mechanical function, gas regulator, changes to the engine.
The EPA has evaluated: ACDS Automotive Cylinder Deactivation System*; Dresser Economizer; MSU Cylinder Deactivation*.
Accessory Drive Modifiers:. These devices reduce power to specific auto accessories.
The EPA has evaluated: Morse Constant Speed Accessory Drive **; P.A.S.S. Kit**; PASS Master Vehicle Air Conditioner**.
Fuels and Fuel Additives: These materials are added to the gas tank.
The EPA has evaluated: Bycosin; EI-5 Fuel Additive; Fuelon Power; Johnson Fuel Additive; NRG #1 Fuel Additive; QEI 400 Fuel Additive; Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive; Sta-Power Fuel Additive; Stargas Fuel Additive; SYNeRGy-1; Technol G Fuel Additive; ULX-15/ULX-15D; Vareb 10 Fuel Additive; XRG #1 Fuel Additive.
Oils and Oil Additives:. Usually these materials are poured into the crankcase.
The EPA has evaluated: Analube Synthetic Lubricant; Tephguard.
Driving Habit Modifiers: These are lights or sound devices to tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift, gas regulator, gears.
The EPA has evaluated: AUTOTHERM**; Fuel Conservation Device; Gastell; IDALERT**.
Miscellaneous: The EPA has evaluated: BRAKE-EZ; Dynamix; Fuel Maximiser; Gyroscopic Wheel Cover; Kamei Spoilers**; Kat's Engine Heater; Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR; Mesco Moisture Extraction System;, gas regulator, P.S.C.U. 01 Device; Treis Emulsifier.
Legend:
* Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy but with an increase in exhaust emissions. According to Federal regulations, installation of this device could be considered illegal tampering.
** Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy without an increase in exhaust emissions. However, cost-effectiveness must be determined by the consumer for a particular application.
Pierre Schexneider is president of The Schexneider Group, LLC an E-commerce consulting business. As a consultant his research abilities have afforded him many opportunities to expand his knowledge base. For gas saving tips please visit: How to Save on Gas
Source: articleage.com
Gas prices are up, and so is the volume of advertising for "gas-saving" products. When gasoline prices rise, consumers often look for ways to improve fuel efficiency. Although, gas regulator, there are practical steps you can take to increase gas mileage, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns you to be wary of any gas-saving claims for automotive devices or oil and gas additives. Even for the few gas-saving products that have been found to work, the savings have been small.
"Gas-Saving" Advertising Claims
Be skeptical of the following, gas regulator, kinds of advertising claims.
"This gas-saving product improves fuel economy by 20 percent."
Claims usually tout savings ranging from 12 to 25 percent. However, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has evaluated or tested more than 100 alleged gas-saving devices and has not found any product that significantly improves gas mileage. In fact, some "gas-saving" products may damage a car's engine or cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions.
The gas-saving, gas regulator, products on the market fall into clearly defined categories. Although the EPA has not tested or evaluated every product, it has tried, gas regulator, to examine at least one product in each category. See "Devices Tested by EPA" at the end, gas regulator, of this brochure for category descriptions and product names.
"After installing your product on my car, I got an extra 4 miles [6.4 kilometers] per gallon [3.8 liters]."
Many ads, gas regulator, feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers. Yet, few consumers have the ability or the equipment to test for precise changes in gas mileage, gas regulator, after installing a gas-saving product. Many variables affect fuel consumption, including traffic, road and weather conditions, and the car's condition.
For example, one consumer sent a letter to a company praising its, gas regulator, "gas-saving" product. At the time the product was installed, however, the consumer also had received a complete engine tune-up, gas regulator, - a fact not mentioned in the letter. The entire, gas regulator, increase in gas mileage attributed to the "gas-saving" product may well have been the result of the tune-up alone. But from the ad, other consumers could not have known that.
"This gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government."
No government agency endorses gas-saving, gas regulator, products for cars. The most that can be claimed in advertising is that the EPA has reached certain conclusions about possible gas savings by testing the product or by evaluating the manufacturer's own test data. If the seller claims that its product has been evaluated by the EPA, ask for a copy of the EPA report, or check www.epa.gov for information. In some instances, false claims of EPA testing or approval have been made.
Product Complaints and Refunds
If you're dissatisfied with a gas-saving product, contact the manufacturer and ask for a refund. Most companies offer money-back guarantees. Contact the company, even if, gas regulator, the guarantee period has expired.
If you're not satisfied with the company's response, contact, gas regulator, your local or state consumer protection agency or the Better Business Bureau.
EPA Evaluation Efforts
The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their use will result in any significant improvement or detriment to fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving products will have on a vehicle over time because it hasn't conducted any durability tests. It's possible, gas regulator, that some products may harm the car or may otherwise adversely affect its performance. In fact, today's vehicles' emission control systems are very sophisticated and complex. They have On Board Diagnostic features that alert the driver to problems associated with the emission control and fuel delivery systems. Retrofit products, gas regulator, may have an adverse effect on these systems.
Devices Tested by EPA
The following list categorizes various types of "gas-saving" products, explains how they're used and gives product names. Those with asterisks may save measurable, but small, amounts of gas. All others have been found, gas regulator, not to increase, gas regulator, fuel economy.
Air Bleed Devices: These devices bleed air into the carburetor, gas regulator, . They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase, gas regulator, Ventilation line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws.
The EPA has evaluated the following products: ADAKS Vacuum Breaker Air Bleed; Air-Jet Air Bleed; Aquablast Wyman Valve Air Bleed; Auto-Miser; Ball-Matic Air, gas regulator, Bleed; Berg Air Bleed; Brisko PCV; Cyclone-Z; Econo Needle Air Bleed; Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle Screws; Fuel Max*; Gas Saving Device; Grancor Air Computer; Hot Tip; Landrum Mini-Carb; Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed; Mini Turbocharger Air Bleed; Monocar HC Control Air Bleed; Peterman Air Bleed; Pollution Master Air Bleed; Ram-Jet; Turbo-Dyne G.R. Valve.
Vapor Bleed Devices: These devices are similar to the air bleed devices, except that induced air is bubbled through a container of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the engine compartment.
The EPA has evaluated: Atomized Vapor Injector; Frantz Vapor Injection System; Hydro-Vac: POWERFUeL; Mark II Vapor Injection System; Platinum Gasaver; V-70 Vapor Injector; SCATPAC Vacuum Vapor Induction System: Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapor Injection System; Turbo Vapor Injection System.
Liquid Injection: These products add liquid into the fuel/air intake system and not directly into the combustion chamber.
The EPA has evaluated: Goodman Engine System-Model, gas regulator, 1800; Waag-Injection System*.
Ignition Devices: These devices are attached to the ignition system or are used to replace original equipment or parts.
The EPA has evaluated: Autosaver; Baur Condenser; BIAP Electronic Ignition Unit; Fuel Economizer; Magna Flash Ignition Control System; Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI; Special Formula Ignition Advance Springs.
Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical system.
The EPA has evaluated: FuelXpander; Gas Meiser, gas regulator, I; Greer Fuel Preheater; Jacona Fuel System; Optimizer; Russell Fuelmiser.
Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to the outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line, claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline.
The EPA has evaluated: PETRO-MIZER; POLARION-X; Super-Mag Fuel Extender; Wickliff, gas regulator, Polarizer [fuel, gas regulator, line magnet/intake air magnet].
Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line, supposedly causing ionization of the fuel.
The EPA has evaluated: Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure regulator]; Moleculetor.
Mixture Enhancers: (under the carburetor). These devices are mounted between, gas regulator, the carburetor and intake manifold and supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel mixture.
The EPA has evaluated:, gas regulator, Energy Gas Saver; Environmental Fuel Saver; Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device; Glynn-50; Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System; PETROMIZER SYSTEM; Sav-A-Mile; Spritzer; Turbo-Carb; Turbocarb.
Mixture Enhancers: (others). These devices, gas regulator, make some general modifications to the vehicle intake system.
The EPA has evaluated: Basko Enginecoat; Dresser Economizer; Electro-Dyne Superchoke;, gas regulator, Filtron Urethane Foam Filter; Lamkin Fuel Metering Device; Smith Power and Deceleration Governor.
Internal Engine Modifications: These devices make physical or mechanical function, gas regulator, changes to the engine.
The EPA has evaluated: ACDS Automotive Cylinder Deactivation System*; Dresser Economizer; MSU Cylinder Deactivation*.
Accessory Drive Modifiers:. These devices reduce power to specific auto accessories.
The EPA has evaluated: Morse Constant Speed Accessory Drive **; P.A.S.S. Kit**; PASS Master Vehicle Air Conditioner**.
Fuels and Fuel Additives: These materials are added to the gas tank.
The EPA has evaluated: Bycosin; EI-5 Fuel Additive; Fuelon Power; Johnson Fuel Additive; NRG #1 Fuel Additive; QEI 400 Fuel Additive; Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive; Sta-Power Fuel Additive; Stargas Fuel Additive; SYNeRGy-1; Technol G Fuel Additive; ULX-15/ULX-15D; Vareb 10 Fuel Additive; XRG #1 Fuel Additive.
Oils and Oil Additives:. Usually these materials are poured into the crankcase.
The EPA has evaluated: Analube Synthetic Lubricant; Tephguard.
Driving Habit Modifiers: These are lights or sound devices to tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift, gas regulator, gears.
The EPA has evaluated: AUTOTHERM**; Fuel Conservation Device; Gastell; IDALERT**.
Miscellaneous: The EPA has evaluated: BRAKE-EZ; Dynamix; Fuel Maximiser; Gyroscopic Wheel Cover; Kamei Spoilers**; Kat's Engine Heater; Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR; Mesco Moisture Extraction System;, gas regulator, P.S.C.U. 01 Device; Treis Emulsifier.
Legend:
* Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy but with an increase in exhaust emissions. According to Federal regulations, installation of this device could be considered illegal tampering.
** Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy without an increase in exhaust emissions. However, cost-effectiveness must be determined by the consumer for a particular application.
Pierre Schexneider is president of The Schexneider Group, LLC an E-commerce consulting business. As a consultant his research abilities have afforded him many opportunities to expand his knowledge base. For gas saving tips please visit: How to Save on Gas
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Biodiesel And Impact On The Environment
Author: Ash Ried
Source: articleage.com
What kind of difference can the use biodiesel make when it comes
to changing the world for the better? Perhaps the biggest impact
of the use of biodiesel fuel instead of just plain diesel is on
the human health and the environment.
One of the biggest differences that biodiesel make is with
regards to smog. Using biodiesel actually reduces smog. Both
unburned hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides in diesel fuel account
for most of the particulates in air pollution. When you use
biodiesel product or homemade biodiesel there is a substantial
reduction of unburned hydrocarbons and if you are using a blend
that is right for, gas regulator, your machine. Tests that have been conducted
according to EPA regulations have shown that the hydrocarbon
exhaust emissions, gas regulator, that biodiesel are half that of that measured
for diesel fuel.
Can biodiesel make more energy? Unlike the burning of fossil
fuels, the burning biodiesel, gas regulator, fuels actually gives back more
energy to the environment that it takes. Lifecycle studies of
biodiesel production show that for every unit of fossil energy
it takes to manufacture fossil fuel, 3, gas regulator, .2 units of energy are
gained. This kind of lifecycle study examines the impact during
all phases of biodiesel production including its transportation,
production and distribution to the biodiesel fuel customer.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to reducing, gas regulator, the
effects of global warming? The answer is yes. The overall
lifecycle emissions, gas regulator, of carbon dioxide (a major greenhouse gas)
from biodiesel are 78% lower than the overall carbon dioxide
emissions from petroleum diesel fuel!
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to reducing acid
rain? Once again the answer is very positive. The overall
lifecycle emissions of sulfur oxides (major components of acid
rain), gas regulator, from biodiesel are 8% lower than overall sulfur oxides
emissions from regular diesel fuel. It's a start.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to waste water?
The overall, gas regulator, lifecycle production of waste water from biodiesel
production is 79.0% lower than overall production of wastewater
from diesel fuel. To put it another way, petroleum diesel makes
roughly five times as much wastewater flow than biodiesel can
make.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to lung cancer and
asthma? Scientific research confirms that biodiesel exhaust is
less harmful to humans then diesel fuel exhaust because lacks
aromatic compounds. The purer the biodiesel fuel is the less
likely it is to create the cancer causing compounds polycyclic
aromatic, gas regulator,, gas regulator, hydrocarbons. Most of the poisonous compounds common to
diesel exhaust are reduced by 75 to 85 percent by using
biodiesel fuel. Biodiesel is also, gas regulator, easier on the lung because it
reduces the emission of the types of particulate matter that
cause asthma and other lung disorders by about 47 percent.
Additionally biodiesel make less, gas regulator, soot. Studies have shown that
biodiesel, gas regulator, reduces the total amount of particulate matter soot in
bus tailpipe exhaust by 83.6%. Soot is the heavy black smoke
portion of the petroleum diesel fuel exhaust that consists of
100% carbon. It has been suggested that diesel soot produces
cancer.
How can you use biodiesel to make a difference? Burning just a
2% biodiesel blend in on-road vehicle that usually takes diesel
fuel will curtail all kinds of harmful emissions. Annually this
one action has the potential to reduce poisonous carbon monoxide
emissions by more than 35 million pounds, reduce ozone forming
hydrocarbon emissions by almost 4 million pounds, reduce
hazardous diesel particulate emissions by almost 3 million
pounds and reduce acid rain-causing sulfur dioxide emissions by
more than 3 million pounds. That's a big difference!
Source: articleage.com
What kind of difference can the use biodiesel make when it comes
to changing the world for the better? Perhaps the biggest impact
of the use of biodiesel fuel instead of just plain diesel is on
the human health and the environment.
One of the biggest differences that biodiesel make is with
regards to smog. Using biodiesel actually reduces smog. Both
unburned hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides in diesel fuel account
for most of the particulates in air pollution. When you use
biodiesel product or homemade biodiesel there is a substantial
reduction of unburned hydrocarbons and if you are using a blend
that is right for, gas regulator, your machine. Tests that have been conducted
according to EPA regulations have shown that the hydrocarbon
exhaust emissions, gas regulator, that biodiesel are half that of that measured
for diesel fuel.
Can biodiesel make more energy? Unlike the burning of fossil
fuels, the burning biodiesel, gas regulator, fuels actually gives back more
energy to the environment that it takes. Lifecycle studies of
biodiesel production show that for every unit of fossil energy
it takes to manufacture fossil fuel, 3, gas regulator, .2 units of energy are
gained. This kind of lifecycle study examines the impact during
all phases of biodiesel production including its transportation,
production and distribution to the biodiesel fuel customer.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to reducing, gas regulator, the
effects of global warming? The answer is yes. The overall
lifecycle emissions, gas regulator, of carbon dioxide (a major greenhouse gas)
from biodiesel are 78% lower than the overall carbon dioxide
emissions from petroleum diesel fuel!
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to reducing acid
rain? Once again the answer is very positive. The overall
lifecycle emissions of sulfur oxides (major components of acid
rain), gas regulator, from biodiesel are 8% lower than overall sulfur oxides
emissions from regular diesel fuel. It's a start.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to waste water?
The overall, gas regulator, lifecycle production of waste water from biodiesel
production is 79.0% lower than overall production of wastewater
from diesel fuel. To put it another way, petroleum diesel makes
roughly five times as much wastewater flow than biodiesel can
make.
Can biodiesel make a difference when it comes to lung cancer and
asthma? Scientific research confirms that biodiesel exhaust is
less harmful to humans then diesel fuel exhaust because lacks
aromatic compounds. The purer the biodiesel fuel is the less
likely it is to create the cancer causing compounds polycyclic
aromatic, gas regulator,, gas regulator, hydrocarbons. Most of the poisonous compounds common to
diesel exhaust are reduced by 75 to 85 percent by using
biodiesel fuel. Biodiesel is also, gas regulator, easier on the lung because it
reduces the emission of the types of particulate matter that
cause asthma and other lung disorders by about 47 percent.
Additionally biodiesel make less, gas regulator, soot. Studies have shown that
biodiesel, gas regulator, reduces the total amount of particulate matter soot in
bus tailpipe exhaust by 83.6%. Soot is the heavy black smoke
portion of the petroleum diesel fuel exhaust that consists of
100% carbon. It has been suggested that diesel soot produces
cancer.
How can you use biodiesel to make a difference? Burning just a
2% biodiesel blend in on-road vehicle that usually takes diesel
fuel will curtail all kinds of harmful emissions. Annually this
one action has the potential to reduce poisonous carbon monoxide
emissions by more than 35 million pounds, reduce ozone forming
hydrocarbon emissions by almost 4 million pounds, reduce
hazardous diesel particulate emissions by almost 3 million
pounds and reduce acid rain-causing sulfur dioxide emissions by
more than 3 million pounds. That's a big difference!
Saturday, November 14, 2009
"Gas-Saving" Products: Fact or Fuelishness?
Author: Pierre Schexneider M. Ed.
Source: articleage.com
"Gas-Saving" Products: Fact or Fuelishness?, gas regulator, By Pierre
Schexneider M. Ed.
Gas prices are up, and so is the volume of advertising for
"gas-saving" products. When gasoline prices rise, consumers
often look for ways to improve fuel efficiency. Although there
are practical steps you can take to increase gas mileage, the
Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns you to be wary of any
gas-saving claims for automotive devices or oil and gas
additives. Even for the few gas-saving products that have been
found to work, the savings have been small.
"Gas-Saving" Advertising Claims
Be skeptical of the following kinds of advertising claims.
"This gas-saving product improves fuel economy by 20, gas regulator, percent."
Claims usually tout savings ranging from 12 to 25, gas regulator, percent.
However, the Environmental Protection Agency, gas regulator, (EPA) has evaluated
or tested more than 100 alleged gas-saving devices and has not
found any product that significantly, gas regulator, improves, gas regulator, gas mileage. In
fact, some "gas-saving" products may damage a car's engine or
cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions.
The gas-saving, gas regulator, products on the market fall into clearly defined
categories. Although the EPA has not tested or evaluated every
product, it has tried to examine at least one product in each
category. See "Devices Tested by EPA" at the end of this
brochure for category descriptions and product names.
"After installing your product, gas regulator, on my car, I got an extra 4 miles
[6.4 kilometers] per gallon [3.8 liters]."
Many ads feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers.
Yet, few consumers have the ability or the equipment to test for
precise changes in gas mileage after installing a gas-saving
product. Many variables affect fuel consumption, including
traffic, road and weather conditions, and the car's condition.
For example, one consumer sent a letter to a company praising
its "gas-saving" product. At the time the product was installed,
however, the consumer also had received a complete engine
tune-up - a fact not mentioned in the letter. The entire
increase in gas mileage attributed to the "gas-saving" product
may well have been the result of the tune-up alone. But from the
ad, other consumers could not have known that.
"This gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government."
No government agency endorses gas-saving products for cars. The
most that can be claimed in advertising is that the EPA has
reached certain conclusions about possible gas savings by
testing the product or by evaluating, gas regulator, the manufacturer's own test
data. If the seller claims that its product has been evaluated
by the EPA, ask for a copy of the EPA report, or check
www, gas regulator, .epa.gov for information. In some instances, false claims of
EPA testing or approval have been made.
Product Complaints and Refunds
If you're dissatisfied with a gas-saving product, contact the
manufacturer and ask for a refund. Most companies offer
money-back guarantees. Contact the company, even if the
guarantee period has expired.
If you're not satisfied with the company's response, contact
your local or state, gas regulator, consumer protection agency or the Better
Business Bureau.
EPA Evaluation Efforts
The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their
use will result in any significant improvement, gas regulator, or detriment to
fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving
products will have on a vehicle over time because it hasn't
conducted any durability tests. It's possible that some products
may harm the car or may otherwise, gas regulator, adversely affect its
performance. In fact, today's vehicles' emission control systems
are very sophisticated and complex. They have On Board
Diagnostic features that alert the driver to problems associated
with the emission, gas regulator, control and fuel delivery systems. Retrofit
products may have an adverse effect on these systems.
Devices Tested by EPA
The following list categorizes various types of "gas-saving"
products, explains how they're used and gives product names.
Those with asterisks may save measurable, but small, amounts of
gas. All others have been found not to increase fuel economy.
Air Bleed, gas regulator, Devices: These devices bleed air into the carburetor.
They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase Ventilation
line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws.
The EPA has evaluated the following, gas regulator, products: ADAKS Vacuum
Breaker Air Bleed; Air-Jet Air Bleed; Aquablast Wyman Valve Air
Bleed; Auto-Miser; Ball-Matic Air Bleed; Berg Air Bleed; Brisko
PCV; Cyclone-Z; Econo Needle Air Bleed; Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle
Screws; Fuel Max*; Gas Saving Device; Grancor Air Computer; Hot
Tip; Landrum Mini-Carb; Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed; Mini
Turbocharger Air Bleed; Monocar HC Control Air Bleed; Peterman
Air Bleed; Pollution Master Air Bleed; Ram-Jet; Turbo-Dyne G.R.
Valve.
Vapor Bleed Devices: These devices are similar to the, gas regulator, air bleed
devices, except, gas regulator, that induced air is bubbled through a container
of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the
engine compartment.
The EPA has evaluated: Atomized Vapor Injector; Frantz Vapor
Injection System; Hydro-Vac: POWERFUeL; Mark II Vapor Injection
System; Platinum Gasaver; V-70 Vapor Injector; SCATPAC Vacuum
Vapor Induction System: Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapor Injection
System; Turbo Vapor Injection System.
Liquid Injection: These products add liquid into the fuel/air
intake system and not, gas regulator, directly into the combustion chamber.
The EPA has evaluated: Goodman Engine System-Model 1800;
Waag-Injection System*.
Ignition Devices: These devices are attached to the ignition
system or are used to replace original equipment or parts.
The EPA has evaluated: Autosaver; Baur Condenser; BIAP
Electronic Ignition Unit; Fuel Economizer; Magna Flash Ignition
Control, gas regulator, System; Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI; Special
Formula Ignition Advance Springs.
Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the
fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is
heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical
system.
The EPA has evaluated: FuelXpander; Gas Meiser I; Greer Fuel
Preheater; Jacona Fuel System; Optimizer; Russell Fuelmiser.
Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to
the, gas regulator, outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line,
claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline.
The EPA has evaluated: PETRO-MIZER; POLARION-X; Super-Mag Fuel
Extender; Wickliff Polarizer [fuel line magnet/intake air
magnet].
Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain
several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line,
supposedly causing ionization of the fuel.
The EPA has evaluated: Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure
regulator]; Moleculetor.
Mixture Enhancers: (under the carburetor). These devices are
mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold and
supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel
mixture, gas regulator, .
The EPA has evaluated: Energy Gas Saver; Environmental Fuel
Saver; Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device;
Glynn-50; Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System;
PETROMIZER SYSTEM; Sav-A-Mile; Spritzer; Turbo-Carb; Turbocarb.
Mixture Enhancers: (others). These devices make some general
modifications to the vehicle intake system.
The EPA has evaluated: Basko Enginecoat; Dresser Economizer;
Electro-Dyne Superchoke; Filtron Urethane Foam Filter; Lamkin
Fuel Metering Device; Smith, gas regulator, Power and Deceleration Governor.
Internal Engine Modifications: These devices make physical or
mechanical function changes to the engine.
The EPA has evaluated: ACDS Automotive Cylinder Deactivation
System*; Dresser Economizer; MSU Cylinder Deactivation*.
Accessory Drive Modifiers:. These devices reduce power to
specific auto accessories.
The EPA has evaluated: Morse Constant Speed Accessory Drive **;
P.A.S.S. Kit**; PASS Master Vehicle Air Conditioner**,, gas regulator, gas, gas regulator, regulator, .
Fuels and Fuel Additives: These materials are added to the gas
tank.
The EPA has evaluated: Bycosin; EI-5 Fuel Additive; Fuelon
Power;, gas regulator, Johnson Fuel Additive; NRG #1 Fuel Additive; QEI 400 Fuel
Additive; Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive; Sta-Power Fuel
Additive; Stargas, gas regulator, Fuel Additive; SYNeRGy-1; Technol G Fuel
Additive; ULX-15/ULX-15D; Vareb 10 Fuel Additive; XRG, gas regulator, #1 Fuel
Additive.
Oils and Oil Additives:. Usually these materials are poured into
the crankcase, gas regulator, .
The EPA has evaluated: Analube Synthetic Lubricant; Tephguard.
Driving Habit Modifiers: These are lights or sound devices to
tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift gears.
The EPA has evaluated: AUTOTHERM**; Fuel Conservation Device;
Gastell; IDALERT**.
Miscellaneous: The EPA has evaluated: BRAKE-EZ; Dynamix; Fuel
Maximiser; Gyroscopic Wheel Cover; Kamei Spoilers**; Kat's
Engine Heater; Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR; Mesco
Moisture Extraction System; P.S.C.U. 01 Device; Treis Emulsifier.
Legend: * Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy but
with an increase in exhaust emissions. According to Federal
regulations, installation of this device could be considered
illegal tampering.
** Indicated a very small improvement in, gas regulator, fuel economy without an
increase in exhaust emissions. However, cost-effectiveness must
be determined by the consumer for a particular application.
For more information on gas saving tips visit
How to
Save on Gas
---------------------------------------
Source: articleage.com
"Gas-Saving" Products: Fact or Fuelishness?, gas regulator, By Pierre
Schexneider M. Ed.
Gas prices are up, and so is the volume of advertising for
"gas-saving" products. When gasoline prices rise, consumers
often look for ways to improve fuel efficiency. Although there
are practical steps you can take to increase gas mileage, the
Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns you to be wary of any
gas-saving claims for automotive devices or oil and gas
additives. Even for the few gas-saving products that have been
found to work, the savings have been small.
"Gas-Saving" Advertising Claims
Be skeptical of the following kinds of advertising claims.
"This gas-saving product improves fuel economy by 20, gas regulator, percent."
Claims usually tout savings ranging from 12 to 25, gas regulator, percent.
However, the Environmental Protection Agency, gas regulator, (EPA) has evaluated
or tested more than 100 alleged gas-saving devices and has not
found any product that significantly, gas regulator, improves, gas regulator, gas mileage. In
fact, some "gas-saving" products may damage a car's engine or
cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions.
The gas-saving, gas regulator, products on the market fall into clearly defined
categories. Although the EPA has not tested or evaluated every
product, it has tried to examine at least one product in each
category. See "Devices Tested by EPA" at the end of this
brochure for category descriptions and product names.
"After installing your product, gas regulator, on my car, I got an extra 4 miles
[6.4 kilometers] per gallon [3.8 liters]."
Many ads feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers.
Yet, few consumers have the ability or the equipment to test for
precise changes in gas mileage after installing a gas-saving
product. Many variables affect fuel consumption, including
traffic, road and weather conditions, and the car's condition.
For example, one consumer sent a letter to a company praising
its "gas-saving" product. At the time the product was installed,
however, the consumer also had received a complete engine
tune-up - a fact not mentioned in the letter. The entire
increase in gas mileage attributed to the "gas-saving" product
may well have been the result of the tune-up alone. But from the
ad, other consumers could not have known that.
"This gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government."
No government agency endorses gas-saving products for cars. The
most that can be claimed in advertising is that the EPA has
reached certain conclusions about possible gas savings by
testing the product or by evaluating, gas regulator, the manufacturer's own test
data. If the seller claims that its product has been evaluated
by the EPA, ask for a copy of the EPA report, or check
www, gas regulator, .epa.gov for information. In some instances, false claims of
EPA testing or approval have been made.
Product Complaints and Refunds
If you're dissatisfied with a gas-saving product, contact the
manufacturer and ask for a refund. Most companies offer
money-back guarantees. Contact the company, even if the
guarantee period has expired.
If you're not satisfied with the company's response, contact
your local or state, gas regulator, consumer protection agency or the Better
Business Bureau.
EPA Evaluation Efforts
The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their
use will result in any significant improvement, gas regulator, or detriment to
fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving
products will have on a vehicle over time because it hasn't
conducted any durability tests. It's possible that some products
may harm the car or may otherwise, gas regulator, adversely affect its
performance. In fact, today's vehicles' emission control systems
are very sophisticated and complex. They have On Board
Diagnostic features that alert the driver to problems associated
with the emission, gas regulator, control and fuel delivery systems. Retrofit
products may have an adverse effect on these systems.
Devices Tested by EPA
The following list categorizes various types of "gas-saving"
products, explains how they're used and gives product names.
Those with asterisks may save measurable, but small, amounts of
gas. All others have been found not to increase fuel economy.
Air Bleed, gas regulator, Devices: These devices bleed air into the carburetor.
They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase Ventilation
line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws.
The EPA has evaluated the following, gas regulator, products: ADAKS Vacuum
Breaker Air Bleed; Air-Jet Air Bleed; Aquablast Wyman Valve Air
Bleed; Auto-Miser; Ball-Matic Air Bleed; Berg Air Bleed; Brisko
PCV; Cyclone-Z; Econo Needle Air Bleed; Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle
Screws; Fuel Max*; Gas Saving Device; Grancor Air Computer; Hot
Tip; Landrum Mini-Carb; Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed; Mini
Turbocharger Air Bleed; Monocar HC Control Air Bleed; Peterman
Air Bleed; Pollution Master Air Bleed; Ram-Jet; Turbo-Dyne G.R.
Valve.
Vapor Bleed Devices: These devices are similar to the, gas regulator, air bleed
devices, except, gas regulator, that induced air is bubbled through a container
of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the
engine compartment.
The EPA has evaluated: Atomized Vapor Injector; Frantz Vapor
Injection System; Hydro-Vac: POWERFUeL; Mark II Vapor Injection
System; Platinum Gasaver; V-70 Vapor Injector; SCATPAC Vacuum
Vapor Induction System: Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapor Injection
System; Turbo Vapor Injection System.
Liquid Injection: These products add liquid into the fuel/air
intake system and not, gas regulator, directly into the combustion chamber.
The EPA has evaluated: Goodman Engine System-Model 1800;
Waag-Injection System*.
Ignition Devices: These devices are attached to the ignition
system or are used to replace original equipment or parts.
The EPA has evaluated: Autosaver; Baur Condenser; BIAP
Electronic Ignition Unit; Fuel Economizer; Magna Flash Ignition
Control, gas regulator, System; Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI; Special
Formula Ignition Advance Springs.
Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the
fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is
heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical
system.
The EPA has evaluated: FuelXpander; Gas Meiser I; Greer Fuel
Preheater; Jacona Fuel System; Optimizer; Russell Fuelmiser.
Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to
the, gas regulator, outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line,
claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline.
The EPA has evaluated: PETRO-MIZER; POLARION-X; Super-Mag Fuel
Extender; Wickliff Polarizer [fuel line magnet/intake air
magnet].
Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain
several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line,
supposedly causing ionization of the fuel.
The EPA has evaluated: Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure
regulator]; Moleculetor.
Mixture Enhancers: (under the carburetor). These devices are
mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold and
supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel
mixture, gas regulator, .
The EPA has evaluated: Energy Gas Saver; Environmental Fuel
Saver; Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device;
Glynn-50; Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System;
PETROMIZER SYSTEM; Sav-A-Mile; Spritzer; Turbo-Carb; Turbocarb.
Mixture Enhancers: (others). These devices make some general
modifications to the vehicle intake system.
The EPA has evaluated: Basko Enginecoat; Dresser Economizer;
Electro-Dyne Superchoke; Filtron Urethane Foam Filter; Lamkin
Fuel Metering Device; Smith, gas regulator, Power and Deceleration Governor.
Internal Engine Modifications: These devices make physical or
mechanical function changes to the engine.
The EPA has evaluated: ACDS Automotive Cylinder Deactivation
System*; Dresser Economizer; MSU Cylinder Deactivation*.
Accessory Drive Modifiers:. These devices reduce power to
specific auto accessories.
The EPA has evaluated: Morse Constant Speed Accessory Drive **;
P.A.S.S. Kit**; PASS Master Vehicle Air Conditioner**,, gas regulator, gas, gas regulator, regulator, .
Fuels and Fuel Additives: These materials are added to the gas
tank.
The EPA has evaluated: Bycosin; EI-5 Fuel Additive; Fuelon
Power;, gas regulator, Johnson Fuel Additive; NRG #1 Fuel Additive; QEI 400 Fuel
Additive; Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive; Sta-Power Fuel
Additive; Stargas, gas regulator, Fuel Additive; SYNeRGy-1; Technol G Fuel
Additive; ULX-15/ULX-15D; Vareb 10 Fuel Additive; XRG, gas regulator, #1 Fuel
Additive.
Oils and Oil Additives:. Usually these materials are poured into
the crankcase, gas regulator, .
The EPA has evaluated: Analube Synthetic Lubricant; Tephguard.
Driving Habit Modifiers: These are lights or sound devices to
tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift gears.
The EPA has evaluated: AUTOTHERM**; Fuel Conservation Device;
Gastell; IDALERT**.
Miscellaneous: The EPA has evaluated: BRAKE-EZ; Dynamix; Fuel
Maximiser; Gyroscopic Wheel Cover; Kamei Spoilers**; Kat's
Engine Heater; Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR; Mesco
Moisture Extraction System; P.S.C.U. 01 Device; Treis Emulsifier.
Legend: * Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy but
with an increase in exhaust emissions. According to Federal
regulations, installation of this device could be considered
illegal tampering.
** Indicated a very small improvement in, gas regulator, fuel economy without an
increase in exhaust emissions. However, cost-effectiveness must
be determined by the consumer for a particular application.
For more information on gas saving tips visit
How to
Save on Gas
---------------------------------------
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